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$164 oil change! Good grief!


Mitch Cronin

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"Would you like us to change your manual transmission fluid sir?"

no thanks.

"Your radiator coolant has too much anti-freeze, it's good to -55°, you should have us flush it for you sir?"

no thanks.

"Your oil was low sir, would you like us to flush your engine?"

no thanks.

Your air filter is packjed sir, you should get a new one." shows it to me... I hold it to the light, almost as clean as a whistle!

no thanks.

"PCV vlave sir?"

no thanks.

"Flush the fuel injectors sir?"

no thanks.

I know these tricksters... they hose my wife every time with something new!

"Your windshield wipers are looking pretty old, would you like new ones?"

[here's the big mistake]Ya, I guess they are getting a little old...ok.

"Teflon sir?"

Huh?

"Teflon, it's the best."

ok, ok... the back one is bad too...

"Yes sir, all 3."

.... Total - $164.44!!!!

3 wiper blades - $68.25! Yikes!

Mobil 1 Synthetic oil $65.99 Yikes!

I've gotta find a place to take my old oil so I can change it myself again for kripes sakes! ...those wiper blades are worth their weight in gold!

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I don't know if they'd take it here, but the nearest to me is a good jaunt... maybe 10-15 miles... and what would I use to transport it in?... Might be the solution tho, I suppose...

I used to be allowed to dump it at the garage in town here... But ever since I discovered the new owner is a crook and stopped getting anything other than gas there.... things changed.

I'll have to ask around... maybe Canadian Tire is the way to go...

I know some people dump it at work, but that's a long way to bring old oil, and not really kosher, I think....

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Guest CabinDweller

"I've gotta find a place to take my old oil so I can change it myself…" - M

G’Day again,

since the early 90s it’s been law in these here parts; any station that performs changes on premises, has to accept up to 8L for disposal from private citizens. (no links, just memory…not sure what came about with antifreeze)

Please tell us you’ll time your front driveway oil changes to the comings and goings of your neighbor a few doors down (700 G-man) while wearing your most Hydrol soaked coveralls (no tape of coarse), and while your single tenant and her child are out front watching as though it’s their major entertainment. :)

Punk’em! :) :) :)

Dean

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...and a cheery g-day t'you too Dean.

"since the early 90s it’s been law in these here parts; any station that performs changes on premises, has to accept up to 8L for disposal from private citizens."

Would that include these here parts? If so, that sure would make for an interesting conversation with this here local garage-man/crook! ;)

later... if you're trying to tell me it sounds like I might be cruddying up the rich folks neighborhood, you're probably right. I have a long driveway though, so as long as the grass is cut, they don't notice too much. :D I did manage to stuff the old boat and the old deisel Suburban into the garage so they wouldn't have to look at them on the grass. ;)

Cheers,

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Just curious. Which would you recommend?

I run synthetic is all the toys.

In my opinion there are two pros: 1)the stuff doesn't turn to Jell-o in the winter (Not important in the boat, but nice for the urban assault vehicle in the winter) and 2)it doesn't break down.

It still gets dirty. It still gets acidic. So it still needs to get changed.

So for enquiring minds, what do you suggest?

Is synthetic the way to go?

One of my cars "recommends" synthetic, will I void the warrantee if I use dino-oil?

I think it is just a way to keep you going back to the dealer since I can't get this oil anywhere else.

Interested in a professional engineer's p.o.v.

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"it doesn't break down."

Tres importante!!!!!!!!!!!

If you can run an engine without ever getting it a bit on the hot side, and will be sure to change it within the time/mileage limits, and you trust the dino-oil (as you call it), go for it... otherwise, if you tend to run them a little hard for a while, and can't be sure you'll be right on time with the next change... I'd go for the synthetic...

I do a lot of hard things to engines, but I use premium gas, and premium oil.... I've never lost a car by killing the engine.

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No?... why you lazy lout! :D

...uhhh, working?

Heck no Mike, we all dropped our tools when they laid you off. ;)

...seriously though? Things are coming close to a boil every day. There's nowhere near enough of us... It's only a matter of time I reckon... maybe divine intervention, or a burst of sudden intelligence could keep things simmered down? Both seem to be nowhere near by.

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I do not recommend changing from one to the other if the engine has been running for years on the first one!Reasoning, seal swelling, if the engine has run on regular motor oil for years and is changed to synthetic, some of the seals may have an adverse reaction, the chances are slim, but I have seen it happen a number of times.If it is a fresh rebuild and you can afford the synthetic, go for it.

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This problem with seal swell was an issue with the first few attempts at manufacturing syth, way back in the 70's. No modern engine or sythetic oil would cause this now. BTW, the problem they had was that the seals wouldn't swell.

"If it is a fresh rebuild......"

Don't use syth for a new rebuild - use the petroleum. The reason is because you change out the oil more frequently and also to allow the running egine to wear off any machining/flashing

"and you can afford the synthetic, go for it."

Synthetic oil is much cheaper in the long run and when all factors are considered. It's better for the environment too.

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This problem with seal swell was an issue with the first few attempts at manufacturing syth, way back in the 70's. No modern engine or sythetic oil would cause this now. BTW, the problem they had was that the seals wouldn't swell.

"If it is a fresh rebuild......"

Don't use syth for a new rebuild - use the petroleum. The reason is because you change out the oil more frequently and also to allow the running egine to wear off any machining/flashing. After a couple of oilchanges and 15 -20 K then change to synthetic.

"......and you can afford the synthetic, go for it."

Synthetic oil is much cheaper in the long run and when all factors are considered. It's better for the environment too.

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I've been using Mobil I full-synthetic oil in my vehicles for years. Extreme hot or cold climates, no sweat! Reports that I have read from testing labs are fairly convincing, the engine wear is greatly reduced, with bonuses in fuel economy (2-3 mpg). I'm also a fan of K&N performance air filters.

I usually run 'dinosaur' for the first 7000 kms to allow seals and valves to properly seat before switching over (dealer recommendation). I still change my oil and filter every 5000 kms. Wal-Mart offers 4.5 l of Mobil I (5W30) for $28. Amsoil has been around for years and is a premium product. Engines have been torn down after 200,000 miles with no appreciable wear to the moving parts.

If you're leasing and not going to buy after 3-4 years, save your money. If this is a special car and you're going to keep it long term, by all means go synthetic. IMHO.

Pierre

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Guest Wetcoaster

The advice I got was run mineral 30W for the first 800 KMs, then detergent 10W30 for 5,000 kms - then whatever you want. I heard also from a rebuilder that synthetic makes seals get brittle. I couldn't say. I heard synthetic doesn't absorb moisture as well. I've run both and note there is less tendency for oil pressure to drop off in extreme heat (idle in gear - hot day - boarder lineups) and that there is less top end pressure when idling cold so suspect quicker lube when cold and better stability when hot. I don't have a block heater so when I head into the cold country I put in synthetic. No problems starting.

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