If I only had had the $$$$

[Malcolm]

La Compagnie - New York, Paris

In 2021, I gave up on major airlines for my regular flights between Paris and New York—despite being a frequent flyer club member with a cache of points. I had purchased economy tickets for my toddler, my husband, and myself, and called the airline to double-check that we could sit together. The customer service rep said seat selection was a privilege for the half-step above economy, but they would let one of us sit next to our daughter—as an exception. Or what? I wondered. Have a stranger tend to our two-year-old?

Fed up with being nickel-and-dimed by the big guys, I decided to forgo the points and play the field. I have since been exploring the spectrum of options for traveling to my native New York (while praying that the three-hour transatlantic flight of the Concorde someday rematerializes). I’ve tried heavily discounted flights sans entertainment with stopovers in Iceland and final destinations in tiny upstate airports. I’ve tried premium seats on low-cost airlines that were like sparkling wine instead of champagne—not the same air of luxury but a respectable alternative.

Most recently, however, I flew with French boutique airline La Compagnie from Orly to Newark. Founded in 2014, La Compagnie is the world’s last-standing business-class-only airline (others have taken off and later folded). The carrier advertises rates that are 30 to 50% less expensive than the competition—a roundtrip La Compagnie flight during the second week of January 2024 is currently listed at $2,038 (approximately $300 less than a United Business Polaris flight and $1,100 less than a Air France business class ticket on the same dates).

 

On my Paris to Newark flight in November, lunch was a four-course menu courtesy of Bretonne chef Nolwenn Corre.© Courtesy La Compagnie

Michelin-starred meals

Collaborations with cool France-based brands and influencers are a USP of La Compagnie. It begins with the welcome apéro. French- and English-speaking flight attendants make their rounds with flutes of crisp Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut, as well as non-alcohol bubbly from French Bloom. Co-founder Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger told Traveler, “Lately when I look around while flying, I see fewer and fewer people opting to drink alcohol during their journey. This shift in preferences aligns perfectly with the evolving travel landscape.” Discerning clients want comfort and quality—wellness, including abstaining from alcohol for whatever reason, factors increasingly into that equation.

I’ve heard that the best strategy for beating jet lag is to fast during the flight, but when the menus are developed in collaboration with Michelin-decorated French chefs, it’s worth chancing some missed sleep. On my Paris to Newark flight in November, lunch was a four-course menu from Bretonne chef Nolwenn Corre—a buckwheat galette with meaty lobster followed by confit lamb shoulder and sautéed pumpkin with chestnuts. There were soft cheeses from the Loire Valley and nutty ones from the French Pyrenees, and wine pairings curated by Bettane+Desseauve.

I paired lunch with a screening of newish indie film, Past Lives, then nodded off during An American in Paris with Gene Kelly. It’s worth noting: the onboard entertainment is the stuff of movie-geek dreams. Business travelers will also be relieved that the Wifi fully functions from the moment you walk on the plane.

Memorable Onboard Events

In general, air travel tends to be forgettable. There was that one time, on a flight from Beijing to Thailand, when a twenty-something guy dropped a note between my friend and me en route to the bathroom. “Hello sleeping beauties,” it said. “Would either of you care to be semi-naughty on a plane?” He wanted to join the mile-high club, and was traveling with his mom. My friend and I still laugh about Owen from Oregon. But typically, flights are a means to an end and you forget the details by the time you heave your suitcase off the baggage carousel.

La Compagnie goes the extra mile to curate onboard happenings that travelers carry with them, from rare champagne tastings to book signings with Paris-based authors like memoirist Anna Kloots and lifestyle tastemaker Ajiri Aki. Said Aki, author of Joie: A Parisian's Guide to Celebrating the Good Life, “I was so nervous and wondering if people wouldn’t want to be bothered during their flight. I was surprised by how excited the flight crew and travelers were to have the option to come and chat with an author.” Even the pilot asked for a couple of signed copies. Everyone on board seems invested in cultivating l’art de vivre.

 

The seats, arranged two on each side of the aircraft, recline fully and are equipped with universal electrical outlets—plus fluffy pillows, quilted blankets, and noise-canceling headphones.© Condé Nast Traveler

The nuts and bolts of flying La Compagnie

Turning to the practical stuff, La Compagnie’s Airbus A321neo planes have 76 seats. Because of the smaller plane size, boarding is relatively quick. While waiting for my flight from Orly, I dined on scrambled eggs and fresh-pressed OJ in the Extime lounge until 25 minutes before the scheduled take-off. Onboard, seats are arranged two on each side, each with universal electrical outlets, fluffy pillows, quilted blankets, and noise-canceling headphones. Travelers all receive a powder-blue toiletry bag with eye masks and hand and face creams by French skincare brand Caudalie. The pod privacy and ability to recline fully flat made me feel like an elite traveler—the only drawback is that folks at the window are inevitably hurdling over their neighbors to get to the bathroom.

The smaller plane size also means a slightly longer flight: 8 hours and 50 minutes on the westbound trajectory. With the time spent taxiing before take-off, we landed in Newark a full hour late. But in all honesty, I wasn’t rushing off the plane anyway, nor were any of my fellow passengers. The late arrival was compensated for on the return flight, when La Compagnie’s premium access allowed us to leapfrog a room full of travelers waiting for passport control at Orly. It was so fast I almost felt guilty.

At a more reasonable price point than the average business class ticket, it’s a worthwhile splurge for the modern Francophile traveler looking for extra comfort. La Compagnie delivers an enjoyable mile-high experience—no club membership required.

La Compagnie roundtrip flights between New York and Paris start at $2,400, depending on the season. La Compagnie also offers roundtrip flights to Nice (during warmer months) and Milan.

From the Frequent Fliers